Our detour to Crystal River to swim with manatees
was just under 24 hours long but, for me, was one of the best experiences that we have had so far.
Crystal River is a small river in Florida running into the Gulf and is home to a small population of endangered manatees all year round. During the winter, when it gets colder, there can be up to 400 living in the river, during summer months, there are about 25 adults and babies staying in the bays.
Our day started around 6am and, once we were fitted out with wetsuits and snorkel gear we were out on the boat with our guide in time for a gorgeous sunrise.
After about 35 minutes we stopped alongside 5 or 6 swimmers who were watching a mother and her calf playing in the water, we joined them for a few minutes and did manage to see them both, but having been in the same place for a while, they moved on (that’s the nice version, the more honest one is that Jon ‘interacted’ with a manatee by accidentally kicking it, then they swam away…) so we went down river to three amazingly clear pools/springs, called the Three Sisters – I managed to get some photos of an underwater crater filled with trees with Robin & Esperanza’s camera which they kindly left with us but the crater was too deep to take the camera down when I dived into it, so the crabs I disturbed didn’t get to have their photos taken.
As we took the boat further to look for more manatees, we found Cici, a small male recently returned to the wild from captivity; he has a small buoy attached to his tail and is being monitored to see how he behaves in the wild, so no one is allowed to swim near him, in case these behaviours are altered. Our guide then took us into a bay where, to my delight, we found four manatees, three adults and a calf, just floating about (that’s pretty much all manatees do, float and eat!). The water was really quite murky but I swam in their vague direction and then just floated (as we were told to, manatees are meant to approach you, not the other way around) After a few minutes the river bed appeared to move under me and a manatee’s back came into view – it was a little like a ‘magic eye’ picture, suddenly the floor had shape and was swimming!
Adult manatees weigh up to 2000 lbs and they certainly made me feel very small and ungainly as they swam around. The white marks you can see in the photos are scars from boat propellers; they all have them, even the little calf, even though the rules for boats on the river are pretty strict. Fortunately, most propeller injuries heal and don’t seem to cause too many problems at slow speeds (keel injuries are another matter, hence the strict speed limits).
After stroking the backs of two of the adults as they hovered near me, I couldn’t believe it when the little calf suddenly appeared in front of me and nudged me in a similar way to the way a dog will head butt you to get attention. I stroked down its back and it promptly rolled over and presented its belly for a rub! We’d been told that they were remarkably affectionate and inquisitive, but to actually see it was quite amazing.
I have a few pictures of the calf – the one with it’s nose very close to the camera wasn’t using zoom; 2 seconds later it headbutted my hand, then my mask. This was extremely cute but a little nerve-wracking, it may have only been a small calf but was still about 8ft long and a much better swimmer than me.
By the time the manatees swam off I could no longer feel my hands or feet (even with a wet suit it was really cold) so we decided to spend the rest of our tour time going out to the entrance to the Gulf and to an islands there called Shell Island, which did appear to be made entirely of shells. Beautiful views and huge banana spiders – some things I won’t miss when we come home!
Back at the hotel we slept for a few hours and then drove about 180 miles towards Washington – we’ve got a little behind because of moving our trip to Crystal River to after Orlando (we meant to go before but Labor Day weekend meant everything was booked up) which means we have a 700 mile drive to Washington tomorrow (Monday) to get us back on track. Good thing I have such a lovely chauffeur!